The hoodie gets dismissed a lot in menswear conversations and we think that’s mostly because people are buying the wrong ones. Too light and it does nothing between seasons. Too heavy and you’re trapped indoors with it. The midweight is where the real work happens, the layer that goes under a coat in January and stands alone in October without looking like you’ve given up on the day.

What we’ve been looking for specifically is structure. A hood that sits right without being pulled on, a kangaroo pocket that lies flat, and a fabric weight that holds its shape after fifty washes. Cotton fleece with a touch of French terry is the construction we keep coming back to. Fit matters more than most brands admit. Too boxy and it reads slovenly. Too fitted and every movement becomes a negotiation.

These are the hoodies that work with tailored trousers as easily as they do with sweats. That range is what separates a good one from a great one.