Dark wash denim has a reputation for being slightly too easy, slightly too safe, and we think that reputation is mostly wrong. When the wash is done well, meaning there is real depth to the indigo, a fade that looks earned rather than factory applied, and a rinse that doesn’t turn grey under artificial light, the result is a jean that does serious work. It sits closer to a smart casual wardrobe than most men expect. Wear it with a leather shoe and a good shirt and it reads almost like tailoring. That is how much the wash matters. The problem is that dark wash done badly looks flat and cheap almost immediately. We have been looking specifically for pairs where the fabric quality backs up the finish, where the weight is right, and where the cut doesn’t betray everything the colour achieves. These are the dark wash jeans that actually hold up.