I didn’t realise I had a problem until I arrived soaking wet at a Savile Row show during London Collections: Men, four years ago. I thought I was suitably outfitted for the British rain in what I thought was a handsome Italian wool overcoat. But I hadn’t accounted for that cruel British downpour that dumps biblical amounts of water on you the second you step outside.
By the time I limped into Somerset House my coat smelled of wet sheep and I looked like a drowned rat. The designer eyed me suspiciously as I approached him to interview him. “You know umbrellas exist, right?” He deadpanned.
Ever since that day I’ve been obsessed with finding rain-appropriate clothing that doesn’t make you look like you’re about to climb Ben Nevis or go camping in the Peak District. Britain has a love/hate relationship with rain.
We live in a country that sees more rainfall annually than anywhere else in Europe, yet we wear clothes that are about as prepared for rain as a delicate ball gown.
Whenever we British talk about the weather, rain comes up. A lot. And if you care about your clothes, rain equals pain.
It seems obvious; wear rain gear when it rains. But “rain gear” is mostly horrifically ugly nylon hoodie fare that clashes badly with everything you already own. The second you wedge yourself into that body-con style waterproof jacket, you’ve gone from James Bond to fungal lesbian hunter in the woods.
But it doesn’t have to be that way. Dry gear that doesn’t look like trash is possible. Below are my tips and tricks for navigating Britain’s inclement weather without sacrificing your sense of style.
Natural fibers are your friend. The weave, density, and fiber all affect how water-resistant a natural fabric will be. Wool is surprisingly resistant to rain.
Traditionally coats were made of wool rather than cotton or linen because wool’s dense fibers and natural lanolin coating provide some degree of water resistance. Wool also insulates when wet, which made it ideal for shepherds who would spend their lives outdoors in all types of weather conditions. Even when wet, wool fabrics hold their shape – essential for a dry garment.
That said, not all wool garments are created equal. A good wool overcoat that’s heavy enough (look for coats that are 600g or more if the brand lists the weight) will shed light rain. Traditional heavyweight British fabrics like covert or cavalry twill were woven to be durable and deal with our climate.
Horse riding set beloved them before waterproof technology became what it is today. Brands like Private White V.C. make amazing waxed cotton/rayon covert raincoats that are understatedly stylish but highly functional. They won’t come cheap (around £600) but they’re 100% worth it if you live here.
In general, British wool overcoats will be heavier (and thus more shower-proof) than you might find from Europe. Waxed cotton is king No, I don’t mean the ghastly “country living” style beige/green Mackintoshes that ageing rock musicians puff around town in. I’m talking modern takes on a classic rain-protection fabric.
Mackintosh actually make some beautifully contemporary updates to their classic rain jackets that look great with everything from jeans and chukkas to slacks and brogues. Similarly UK brand Universal Works recently released a waxed cotton chore jacket that is seriously rainproof, yet still looks really good. The key is fit.
Get yourself a fitted waxed jacket in a darker colour (dark colours hide rain spotting far better) and you’ll have a waterproof jacket that doesn’t scream “Look at me, I stopped caring about clothes because of rain!” Treating Fabric Just like waxed cotton, many natural fabrics can have their rain resistance increased by treatment. Outerwear specialists Grenfell still manufacture their coats in a densely woven cotton that naturally repels water thanks to the closeness of the weave rather than any chemical treatment. Similarly British company British Millerain manufacture waxed cotton and other water-resistant fabrics that are used by high-end designers like Bracken Supply right through to workwear experts like ARC’TERYX.
Suiting The worst part about rainy days is ruining that perfectly dry suit as you run out into downpour to make it to your next meeting on time. Again the key is the fabric. Heavier wool suits with a tighter weave will weather light rain better than a fine wool summer suit.
British mills like Fox Brothers in Somerset and Abraham Moon make some great choices for rain-resistant suits. You won’t be completely dry if you get caught but you will buy yourself some extra time to get shelter thanks to those couple of millimeters of fabric thickness. Below are a few tried and tested choices for outerwear, rainproof fabrics, and suit options that will keep you as dry as possible.
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Umbrellas Buy yourself a nice sturdy umbrella. A full-sized wood handled umbrella that opens like a conventional umbrella, NOT one of those stupid foldy things that turns inside-out at the first puff of wind. James Smith & Sons make fantastic umbrellas in London that will last you a lifetime.
Expect to pay around £100-150 but these will last you for decades if looked after, making them fantastic value. London Undercover is another option if you want something slightly more modern. Shoes There’s nothing worse than having soaking wet feet, but do you really want to be lugging around Wellington boots everywhere you go?
While wellies are fantastic for what they were intended (garden/golf/etc. ), they’re not wonderful for urban environments. The best shoes to handle rainy weather are traditionally British shoes built with our weather in mind. Look for Northampton-made shoes with storm welts.
Storm welts are an extra layer of leather that creates a seal between the shoe upper and the sole, offering better protection from rain. Tricker’s, Crocket & Jones, and Cheaney are all good places to look. Sanders & Sanders do some great military-inspired derby shoes with rubber soles that repel water well and look smart enough to wear in most offices.
However, did you know that properly cared-for leather shoes are water-resistant? Yep, shoes made from quality leather and treated with dubbin and polish are naturally going to resist water better than cheaper alternatives. The polish isn’t just there for aesthetics, you’re actually creating a layer that will help water bead up and run off the leather.
Treat your shoes right and they’ll keep your feet dry. I have a pair of Crockett & Jones Conistons that have lasted me through 7 winters of London rain without giving me wet feet once because I polish them religiously. For something more casual, grab a pair of desert boots in suede.
I know, suede and water don’t mix. But with the right suede protection (I like Liquiproof) deserts will keep your feet dry and look good. The key is to prep them BEFORE they get wet!
Other Other than umbrellas, there are a few other things you can do or wear to keep dry. A wool scarf can do wonders to keep rain off your neck and chest, and because wool can still insulate when wet, you won’t feel like you’re being strangled by handfuls of sandpaper. Lock & Co’s lambswool scarves are particularly nice.
Hats! Speaking of heads, a wool felt hat can do wonders to keep rain off your neck and face. Yes, I’m aware that 99% of men under the age of 70 hate wearing hats.
Get over it. They’re useful, and they don’t hurt your head. The thicker the wool the better.
A medium brimmed Trilby or Fedora (not those tiny dumpsters they sell now) can keep you considerably drier. Christys’ and Lock & Co both make great ones. Take Care of your Dry Clothes It should go without saying that you need to care for your dry clothes properly once you get home.
Spend £400 on a wax jacket and then never hang it up properly and it’ll look creased and wear far quicker than if you hang it in a dry closet every night. I own both a quality wax jacket and suit from Fox Brothers and making sure they’re dried and cared for properly after being caught in the rain helps them look like new for years.
Buy good wooden shoe trees for every pair of shoes.
They soak up the moisture from wet shoes and help them retain their shape, drastically increasing the lifespan of your favourite shoes. For wool jackets a proper clothes brush will help revive the nap of your dry coat once it’s completely dry. Quick tips on garment care can be found here.
Dressing for rain is about acknowledging and accepting that Britain does indeed hate you by raining every second of the year. It’s about making sure you don’t wear fabrics that look terrible when they’re wet (bye silk) and opt for ones that keep the moisture out, or at least look better when soaked. It’s about spending a little more time drying your clothes properly that ensuring you’re prepared with the right gear should you get caught out.
The Italians have perfected their clothing around Mediterranean summers. The Scandinavians craft theirs to withstand Arctic winters. It’s high time we British learned how to deal with our rainy season.
Yes, by water-proof jackets and waxed cotton. But also by choosing garments made from fabrics that can survive a damp British summer.
